Unraveling the impact of fast fashion on developing nations
What is Textile Waste Colonialism?
Textile waste colonialism refers to the practice of wealthier nations, particularly in the Global North, exporting vast amounts of used or unsold garments to countries in the Global South. In 2019 alone, over 15 million tons of textile waste were generated in the U.S., of which only 15% was recycled and the remaining 85% ended up in landfills or was incinerated. Much of this waste is shipped to countries like Ghana, Kenya and Haiti. This form of waste dumping shifts the responsibility for the fast fashion industry’s unsustainable production and consumption habits onto countries with fewer resources to manage it.
How Are Consumers Contributing to the Problem?
The cycle begins with fast fashion—clothing that is cheaply made, bought and discarded quickly. Globally, consumers now buy 60% more clothing than they did just 15 years ago and each item is kept for about half as long. When consumers discard clothing, it is often donated under the assumption that it will find a new home. In reality, only 10–20% of donated clothing is resold locally, while the rest is either shipped overseas or ends up in landfills.
- Overconsumption – Buying clothes that are discarded after only a few wears. The average American throws away 81 pounds of clothing per year, contributing to a culture of disposability.
- Disposal Habits – Consumers donate or discard clothes without understanding that the majority of “donations” become waste in other countries.
- Demand for Fast Fashion – The demand for cheap, trendy clothing encourages overproduction, low wages and limited accountability from brands.
The Devastating Impact of Textile Waste Colonialism
Textile waste colonialism places a significant burden on the environment, economy and communities of developing nations. In Ghana’s capital, Accra, approximately 15 million pieces of secondhand clothing arrive weekly in the Kantamanto Market. Nearly 40% of these clothes are classified as waste, destined for dumpsites that overwhelm waste management infrastructures. These textile dumps leach toxic chemicals and dyes into soil and groundwater, disrupting ecosystems and local agriculture.
The impact on local economies is equally severe. The flood of cheap, low-quality secondhand clothing undercuts local textile industries, as locally made products struggle to compete with the volume and pricing of imported waste. Textile and garment sectors in Ghana, for example, have seen significant declines, leading to job losses and undermining economic independence. This economic dependency, coupled with environmental degradation, reinforces a neocolonial relationship between Global North and Global South countries.
Socially, the dumping of Western clothing exacerbates poverty and inequality in these countries. Local populations are often left to deal with the fallout of this waste crisis, shouldering the environmental and health impacts of excessive textile disposal. As Western countries profit from fast fashion’s relentless production, the true cost is borne by communities thousands of miles away, who face mounting waste, loss of economic independence and environmental destruction.
Policies and Actions: Holding Companies Accountable for Textile Waste
On the bright side, several countries have begun to hold corporations accountable for the waste they create, setting a precedent for other nations:
- France – France implemented an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) law in 2008, which requires clothing producers and retailers to fund recycling programs for post-consumer textile waste. This landmark policy mandates that companies are responsible for the full lifecycle of their products. France’s anti-waste law also bans companies from destroying unsold clothing, pushing brands to repurpose or donate items instead.
- Sweden – Sweden has proposed a tax reduction for clothing repairs to encourage consumers to maintain garments longer. Additionally, Sweden is investigating broader EPR policies to hold companies accountable for managing textile waste sustainably.
- The European Union – The EU introduced a Circular Economy Action Plan in 2020, focusing on sustainable production, consumption and waste reduction. Part of this plan includes a future mandate for textile companies to recycle and reduce waste, which is expected to influence global industry standards.
What Can You Do to Slow the Impact?
There are actionable steps both consumers and industries can take to mitigate textile waste colonialism:
- Buy Less, Buy Better – Consumers can focus on quality, durable items rather than short-lived trends.
- Support Sustainable Fashion – Investing in brands that prioritize ethical production and sustainability helps reduce the demand for fast fashion.
- Upcycle and Repair – Extend the life of garments by upcycling or repairing them rather than discarding them.
- Research Donations – Be mindful of where you donate clothing. Look for local organizations that have a clear policy on how they distribute donations.
- Advocate for Policy Change – We, as consumers, can advocate for Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policies and anti-waste laws in their own countries, which would require brands to manage waste responsibly and potentially reduce the production of disposable clothing. Additionally, import regulations on textile waste could limit the dumping of poor-quality garments in developing nations.Push for legislation that holds companies accountable for the lifecycle of the products they create and sell.
Building a Conscious Closet
The path toward a more ethical, sustainable fashion industry starts with awareness. By understanding the hidden impacts of textile waste colonialism and advocating for stronger policies, consumers can make more informed choices and contribute to a more equitable global fashion system.
Sources
- Brooks, Andrew. Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-hand Clothes. Zed Books, 2015.
- Kantamanto Market Project. "The Kantamanto Market in Ghana: A Study of Second-Hand Clothes and Their Impact." Or Foundation, 2020.
- McNeill, Lisa, and Rebecca Moore. "Sustainable Fashion Consumption and the Fast Fashion Conundrum." Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, vol. 19, no. 3, 2015, pp. 207–223.
- Ofori-Birikorang, Eugene. "Textile Waste Colonialism: Ghana’s Burden from the Global North." Journal of Environment and Waste Management, vol. 4, no. 2, 2021, pp. 45-67.
- Wiedemann, S. G., et al. "Environmental Impacts of Clothing Production and Disposal." Sustainability, vol. 11, no. 20, 2019.
- European Commission. "A New Circular Economy Action Plan for a Cleaner and More Competitive Europe." European Union, 2020.
- Stop Waste Colonialism. https://stopwastecolonialism.org/stopwastecolonialism.pdf